I’ve been slow to join the conversation on rams. This is primarily because I feel it’s a more nuanced discussion then many realize. Rams are complex & intelligent, but often treated with 1/10th the process we exert to training canines or equines.
I really enjoy my Icelandic rams. They are 170-220 pound horned wooly mammoths who descend from the sheep the Vikings left behind on one of the coldest & most isolated islands in the world. In one word, they’re remarkable, but not to be taken lightly. I find many people resort to two methods: train them from the beginning or try to subdue them & hold the alpha position through force & fear.
Let’s begin with the Merriam-Webster dictionary, a very good place to start.
ram (noun)
: a male sheep
: a warship with a heavy beak at the prow for piercing an enemy ship
: any of various guided pieces for exerting pressure or for driving or forcing something by impact
ram (verb)
: to strike with violence
: to move with extreme rapidity
Well that shifts the conversation a bit because every definition can be applied to that big beautiful animal in the pasture! The one, if you allow it, who will run to you like a Golden Retriever. Many people don’t fully realize how friendly rams can be & how dangerous that is.
My ultimate goal is to raise a ram that doesn’t run away from me or to me. It’s a tricky balance & the first 6-8 months is a pivotal training time.
It is absolutely necessary to never forget you’re dealing with a ram. You can raise him well, train him, & never have had a problem, but his head/horns are optimized to receive & deliver blows of astounding force. 60x the force necessary to give a human a concussion. One such blow can render you permanently injured. It has to be said, rams MUST always be handled with caution.
Does this mean I do not socialize my rams? No. I feel it’s important to set in place early groundwork. It means from before a month old I am setting boundaries. It also means I respect the job the ram has in the flock & I set up the appropriate infrastructure to keep him & myself safe.
I balk at rules because there is almost always an exception, but for the sake of learning let’s set a few ground rules so there’s a place to start when setting boundaries with your ram lamb.
Keep in mind most ram lambs make these difficult because they will often be the friendliest of your lambs! They love attention.
Never pet a ram lamb’s head
Rams must always respect your space. They should not crowd your legs or rub against you. If you wave your hand for them to back away, they should do it.
Never let a ram playfully butt you. He should never back up & feint ram you. He should never appear to ‘protect’ you or be possessive of you. He should not push other sheep out of the way to interact with you. (I know it’s difficult to resist those sweet, wooly ram lambs, but if you want a respectful 2 year old ram, you MUST resist.)
Never allow a ram to jump up on you.
Be cautious with small children. A ram lamb can mistake their small size & begin to acquire a sense of superiority. If your children befriend a ram lamb then make the decision to wether him & keep him as a fiber pet. Having one pet in the flock can be helpful. It’s also nice to have a ewe in this position, but our fiber pet, who my girls named Rainbow, was a staple in our flock & I’m glad we had him. It’s something to consider if you fall for a ram lamb!
Never feed a ram lamb treats by hand. I go one step further, I seldom feed my rams treats. In all fairness, I don’t feed my horses many treats for the same reason. Large animals can get pushy quickly when they love treats. I prefer to pour the alfalfa pellets or other treats into a low sided bucket or trough on the ground. Treats can be tricky, so if you’re concerned, then forgo them! Your rams will be just fine.
These are the ground rules for not mishandling a ram lamb, but I’ll also share some ways to interact with him & what environmental factors help produce a good citizen.
This is me of my favorite article on rams. It was written by Martha Polkey with the Maryland Sheep Breeders.
A few key quotes are:
“A successful shepherd understands the motivations and behaviors of sheep, and organizes facilities and management strategies to minimize stress—on animals and humans alike.”
“Avoid actions and behaviors that invite aggression. Favor psychology and good facilities over battles. Structure facilities so that problematic encounters are avoided. The end result is less wear and tear on humans and animals alike.”
Brook and Lois Moore, breeders of Shetland sheep at Stonehaven Farm, have another extremely good article (the website is not still up, but Google & you’ll find it). “Many people believe that rams are inherently dangerous and shouldn’t be given attention, but some of them can be very affectionate for their whole lives. Congenial, and even close, relationships with the shepherd are very possible as long as the ram understands, and wholeheartedly believes, that the shepherd is the ‘alpha ram.’”
My experience is that achieving this alpha or leader status seldom requires physical force. Dr Temple Gradin, of Colorado State University, has a four part series on sheep handling. It ranges from on the farm all the way to the processor.
Here are the intro & the first video.
As a lamb I like to train them to come to my voice & move away from me when I snap my fingers. This does not mean I pet them or praise them when they come, it’s best to nonchalantly pour some of the treat into a low flat bucket or trough. If there are other sheep & they get most the treats, that’s okay. The ram understands your voice means everyone comes running. Don’t feed the ram lamb separately even if he didn’t get many treats.
If you want to pet your ram lamb (sparingly) then raise his chin & rub down his neck while keeping his head raised. By raising his head you are short circuiting any instinct connected to head lowering & butting. A more dominant ram may resist having his head raised. If this happens, you can gently work on it or chose not to let that ram. Make a note that this ram was not as pliable as the others.
When they are young, you can also apply light pressure to his chest & back him up a step or two. Just like horses, asking a sheep to back up, to ‘give you ground’ is you exerting yourself as the alpha, or herd leader, but make it quick & gentle. It should not be a confrontation.
The only other place you can occasionally pet a ram lamb is his rump. You can give him a quick rub but don’t over do it.
The key with ram lambs is to always be nonchalant & quick with interactions. This why they get used to being handled, but they never expect it or connect it with treats or excessive affection. You are the busy shepherd (leader) he is the insignificant ram lamb. It may sound harsh, but he’ll thank you when he has a job & a flock 4-5 years later because he’s such a good reliable ram!
It’s important to note rams have different personalities. Some are super laidback & some are excitable. I’ve never had a true ‘bad apple’ but I’m told they’re out there. Sadly, I feel you can train a young ram to be a dependable member of the flock, but I think the success rate of rehabilitating an angry ram is very low & seldom, if ever, worth it. Those situations are dangerous.
It’s important to understand that temperament can be genetic. I’ve only been hit by a ram once, the same holds true for my husband. It was a father & son, with the incidents being nearly two years apart. Those are the only two cases of a ram being openly, dangerously aggressive that we’ve experienced. Considering how many rams we’ve had, it is certainly not a coincidence.
“Three factors figure in ram behavior,” says University of Illinois Cooperative Extension sheep specialist A. Richard Cobb:
• the genetics of the animal.
• the amount of human contact the animal has had or is having.
• the quality of the human exposure the animal has had or is having.
So tractable rams are partly born, partly created, and so are aggressive ones. Good management facilities and an understanding of behavior gets you to the requirements for good animal welfare.
Their genetic makeup, inherited from their parents, means some of them have the genes to be more aggressive, passive, or timid than the rest of the population. Some families and lines are more aggressive than others are. This does not mean that just because an animal is from an aggressive line that it will automatically be aggressive, but that it has a greater potential to be.” (A. Richard Cobb).
I’ve reached a point where I won’t keep rams who repeatedly break fences, are inclined to fight with other rams beyond the point of reason, or are rough with lambs or ewes, but the number one deal breaker is any aggression towards humans. It’s just not worth it. There are too many good rams out there.
How they’re kept also plays a KEY role in their behavior. They form relationships, or society, which gives them a sense of security. A ram MUST have companionship. This can be a wether, another ram, or the ewes he lives with year round.
Each of these scenarios will create a slightly different ram. A wether is a friend who seldom ever challenges him, but gives him a sense of security. This is a good thing since that sense of security is what keeps a ram calm, but the ram will always be the ‘boss’ in his eyes. Something to remember.
When he lives with ewes he achieves security, but he may also develop a strong sense of protectiveness & possessiveness. This is natural. It doesn’t mean he’s a bad ram, he’s doing his job as protector, but it’s necessary to consider how this effects him & to adjust your infrastructure accordingly.
I always recommend feeding rams from over the fence. It’s a simple adjustment that immediately keeps you safe, especially October-April. I’m not saying you won’t need to go in periodically for care, hoof trimming etc, but removing the need to go in everyday is a good idea.
The last option is living with other rams. It is my favorite, but not realistic for all small farms. I like keeping a ram with other rams because they create their own power structure. They keep each other in check.
Another important component is space. A healthy calm ram needs space. He cannot be kept in a stall or small pen. If he’s kept in tight conditions, he will not age as well, or maintain the calm temperament you desire.
I didn’t address halter breaking, but it’s a helpful skill for any sheep to learn. I’m waiting on a write up from a fellow shepherdess who makes this part of her routine. She hand shears her entire flock & milks so the halter breaking is very useful. I’ll post a link when I have it.
Another important technique is the ‘bachelor squeeze or ram cram’ that happens when reuniting rams after breeding season. Here is an article written by a longtime shepherdess in Michigan. It’s on rams & covers some of the above, but also has an account from a Scottish shepherd on the reuniting of rams after breeding season. Up until this year, we have always utilized a ‘ram cram’. It’s a controlled method for reintroducing rams after breeding season.
I’ll also leave you with this funny article in the New Yorker concerning an Icelandic ram, as well as this response letter to the editor.
I am in agreement. I enjoy the inherent nature of the ram, the keen intelligence & primitive survival skills coupled with their curiosity & friendliness, but much like a lion tamer- I never underestimate them.
I hope all of this helps you navigate your journey with rams. It’s tricky at first & I was in tears during my first ram cram, but this week I reunited nine rams without any wear & tear on anyone, including myself. A calm approach with boundaries is essential for long term success with rams. Good luck & stay safe.
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