“Hi Kimberly. We had a really bad summer last year and lost a lot of lambs and a ewe. We got hit with barberpole and I don’t think we gave what they needed. Can you give us some advice for barberpole?”
This is a broad question, but we all know what it’s like to have a tough summer when you’re just starting out. The situation is made even harder when your shepherding alongside small children. It’s just plain sad. I usually start by asking about region, size of flock & farm, years with sheep, type of feed and other management strategies.
To begin, your best foundation is rotational grazing. This is especially true if you live anywhere that has parasite pressure; notably the barberpole. This is the sworn enemy of the small ruminant, particularly the sheep! It is a parasite that embeds itself in the stomach lining and slowly sucks the blood of your sheep until it dies. Gruesome and terrible, but like all things the barberpole has a life cycle and limitations. The barberpole lies dormant at certain times and cannot climb a blade of grass beyond 4”. This means if you rotate pastures and avoid eating the grass below 4-5” you will have much healthier sheep. Further research on the terms: rotational grazing, intensive grazing and regenerative grazing will help. Implementing those methods on your allotment of land.
This will often limit your carrying capacity (how many sheep you can put on an acre) but in the long run you & your flock will be much happier. If you cannot maintain strong rotational grazing you have a couple choices: dry lot and feed hay or try to get by with the help of chemical dewormer (this may work for a couple of years, but be aware that parasites become resistant to dewormer quickly if it is used regularly). Rotational grazing is not only good for your flock, but it’s good for the soil and environment. If possible, run a smaller healthier flock and rotate. , you’ll rotate eve Work out a plan that accommodates the size & number of your pastures and the number of sheep in the flock.
Adequate protein, whether it be pasture, hay or alfalfa pellets, it is essential. Proper mineral balance; loose minerals are essential & I love boluses. Fresh water, shade and shelter for heat, are essential. Look at the post on Boluses regarding using COWP boluses to help combat barberpole. Doing your own fecals or getting a vet’s help can determine which sheep in the flock are dropping most of the worms.
There is a difference between a parasite resistant & a parasite resilient sheep. You are looking for parasite resistant- they have a lower worm load and are dropping fewer worms versus parasite resilient- they carry a heavy worm load but are not as effected by it. Routine fecals are the best way to do this. Otherwise pay attention to FAMACHAs and decide how much extra support is too much support.
I’m a big believer in the 20/80 Philosophy. 20% of your sheep will drop 80% of your worms. 20% of your sheep will create 80% of your work. Only the shepherd can decide when enough is enough, but culling weak sheep will help you create a stronger flock in the long run. If you are considering someday selling sheep to others then culling is imperative. To do justice to the breed, and support new shepherds, you only want to sell strong sheep. This means learning to cull early on. Thankfully the lamb is delicious & learning to tan, or sending your sheepskins out to be tanned, is a wonderful experience.
Yet despite every effort and preparation, there are times in the middle of the summer when you come out to discover a sick sheep. Pale to white eyelids, lethargy, or bottlejaw. It’s best to always get a fecal, but I understand many farms are too faraway to make this realistic. A sheep or lamb can be dead before many of us can get a vet fecal back. A microscope comes in handy, but again I understand it’s not a warranted expense or skill for a small flock.
My treatment for the above condition is:
Two dewormers. One white. One clear. I like to give them at 1.5-2x listed dosage. (FOLLOW DOSAGE FOR PROHIBIT EXACTlY- PROHIBIT REQUIRES CAUTION. READ ALL DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY)
DO NOT GIVE VALBAZEN TO PREGNANT EWES
I don’t use chemical dewormer often so Cydectin (clear) and Valbazen (white) are effective on my flock. Some people say they must give repeat doses of these. I have never needed to do this with my protocol, but be aware that region, parasite load on pasture, and health of the flock may effect this. Some flocks may need repeat dosages. If you’re sheep are not improving then it is time to talk to a vet.
A 2g or 4g COWP (depending on weight of sheep/lamb). This is a copper oxide wire particle bolus. Give right after the chemical dewormers. (Copassure and Santa Cruz both make one. They’re marketed for goats).
10-30 ml of Red Cell depending on size of sheep. This is for iron. It does contain copper. (This is made for horses and will be found in the equine department). Some prefer to give a shot of iron meant for pigs (it will have a pig on most bottles). I don’t give this injection but it is an option. (The red cell can be repeated, but lower the dose the more days you give it. Take note of the sheep’s size. Use with caution it does contain copper).
Vitamin B Complex (can be repeated, Vit B complex is water soluble so you cannot accidentally overdose on this one, but it does sting so consider two injection sites if giving more then 5 ml- dosage on the bottle)
A drench of molasses water mixed with mashed garlic (can be repeated but you may need to add a probiotic at some point).
Make two waters available. One fresh. One with Apple Cider Vinegar (with the Mother). (can be left, but does require refreshing every few days)
1.5 injection of BoSe or a dose of Selenium/Vit E gel.
Nutridrench won’t hurt if the animal is still struggling to recover after the above.
The same goes for A/D/E gel. I usually don’t need it, but if the sheep is slow to recover it won’t hurt. If the sheep was not on fresh pasture (green grass) and is eating hay only (especially if it’s 8+ months old hay) then the Vit E becomes more important and I’d add a dose of this gel.
Slowly increase protein. We are grass fed so this is either alfalfa pellets or a grass/alfalfa hay (non-stemmy). Protein will go a long way in recovery & maintaining the immune system.
For full disclosure, I have no reason to push any one brand. I provide these pictures solely because I value my sleep. Late night calls, or calls at dawn as someone drives to a TSC 2 hours away. The pictures are nothing more then an attempt to avoid the calls during dinner from distraught first time shepherds, standing in feed stores, holding up bottles or FaceTiming. They're only posted as a reference. Brand isn’t important. Product is. These are here as a reference. Nothing more.
One last note. After you deworm your sheep, keep them penned up and off pasture for 24-36 hours. This will allow time for them to expel the worms. You would rather take out a shovel and remove that refuse then to drop it all over your pasture. If there are any dewormer resistant worms being dropped then you want to collect and dispose of them. Not spread them across your pasture.
Always remember I am not a vet & these are only my personal experiences.
Summer is tough. There is a learning curve to sheep, but it does get easier! I promise.
Take care,
Kimberly
Comments